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HISTORY OF SAN JORGE ECO-LODGE & BOTANICAL RESERVE/quito
THE LAST INCAN EMPEROR'S TRAIL

By Dr. George Cruz B.

Hiking Naturalist Tours at San Jorge Eco-Lodge
& Botanical Reserve take us back in time to 1500 BC

 

Learn more about our Eco-Adventure Tour

The Ancient Civilizations of Ecuador forged a trail through the highlands of the Andes, crossing the Nono Alto Valley, and connecting the Northern end of Quito to the Coastal interior regions. This trail traverses near the famous 'Middle of The World" line, where zero degrees latitude meets zero degrees longitude at the center of the equator. It is in this area where San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve is located and where our cultural, ecological and eco-adventure activities are developed. One can feel the ancient touch when horseback riding, hiking, birdwatching, biking, or partaking in shamanism practices while at San Jorge Botanical Reserve.

Pre-Incan Civilizations
The first etnia, or, human groups, in the region now known as Ecuador, were migratory tribes who moved with the herds, living off the land and utilizing natural resources, setting up seasonal camps as they traveled. These people were hunters & gatherers who eventually began to populate the northern areas, some 12,000 years ago.

The first known group to become sedentary was the Cotocollao Tribe, around 3500 years ago. This tribe developed a group of villages in the Ecuadorian Andes Mountain area. The main village was located at the North end of what is now Quito, in front of a lake, which has now since disappeared. It is important to note that while many llama and alpaca bones have been found around these dwellings; whether these animals were wild or domesticated during this period of time remains uncertain.

Hunting was a customary activity of these groups, and they would often hunt deer, weasel, skunks, wolves, pigeons, opossum, guinea pigs, mice, rabbits and various other wild animals.

The Cotocollao were a diminutive people; the males averaging 1,59 cm tall, while the females measured 1,48 cm. It is interesting to note that one can see their influence in the ceramics of Machalilla and the La Chorrera cultures of this period, namely in the legs and supporting structure of the ceramics. These etnia initially buried their dead alone, adopting the practices of group burials some time later, most likely due to the increasing permanence of their settlements.

This etnia is the structural base of the Quito nationality because it is the first testimony of a village in Ecuador. Thousands of years before the Spanish discovered this area, this was the first foundation of Quito. The Pululahua volcanic eruption, around 1500 BC, completely destroyed this early civilization.

This area was their main ceremonial location. The province of the Yumbos, Tulipe Village (Pichincha Province) which also included Cachillacta, Gualea, Alambi, Mindo, Jitan, Embitusa, and Alosqui.

The Tulipe Village has 3 different ancient cultural locations, which looks like a sample of the Cotocollao Culture of 1500 BC. This group also arrived to this area and some ceremonial swimming pools that belonged to theYumbos and Incan cultures have been discovered there.

From 550 BC - 500 AD another native culture of Chaupicruz habituated in the eastern Pichincha foothills from the Northern to the Southern areas. They also occupied the San Jorge areas and would use these trails to connect the coastal interiors. The museum at San Jorge contains ceramics and other artifacts belonging to these groups.

The tribes responsible for creating the pre-Incan roads and trails and that connect areas with the coastal interior were the Niguas, Cocaniguas, Bolaniguas, Xachilas and Yumbos.

Trading Activities
The main commercial activities these groups developed were trading highland Andes products with exotic subtropical products. They brought to these trails from the coast, Salt, cotton, yucca, papayas, pineapples, peanuts, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, special sea shells (Spondilus, found only in the Machalilla area), fish and other sea products. Even the Incas considered these products to be sacred for thousands of years.

Trading in goods from the highlands, the Cotocollao brought potatoes, chilies, corn, special indigenous roots, i.e. mellocos, mashuas, ocas, quinua and chochos.

Of special interest in these markets was a type of crystal used for making weapons and utensils, a shining black volcanic glass called Obsidian. Even now, we find on our trips, hand-worked artifacts of this crystalline material. The only remaining natural obsidian mine in Ecuador is located in the Antizana area of the eastern Andes chain.

The Four Climate Zones:
Hiking during ancient times, was a long and interesting journey. The spectacular views and backdrops of that time are still surreal today. In order to complete this journey, from Quito or Cotocollao and down to Tulipe into the coastal interiors, one must pass through four distinct climate environments, or zones, viewing the magical changes in vegetation and fauna as you passed through these four distinct climate zones. This is true even today! The altitude ranges from The Highland Rain Forest, around 3500 mts o.s.l (over sea level); the High Barren Plains , around 3300 mts o.sl., the Cloud Forest around 1800 mts and down to the Subtropical Rain Forest at an altitude of around 900 mts o.s.l.


Incan Empire History:
In the Incan Empire Age, around 1500 A.D., the Cotocollao area was an Incan Mitimae Village. The Mitimaes were complete villages that were sent by the Emperor to travel far and wide, especially to the boundaries of the empire, to the tribes that were living in the center of the empire. These areas, now known as Cuzco and Great Collao, are in the lower and higher areas of Peru.

The idea behind sending their people from the Mitimae villages to travel these vast distances was to introduce the Incan culture to the tribes that were furthest away. They would then observe the behavior of these distant tribes in comparison with Incan behaviorism. Emperor Huayna Capac, who was the father of the last Incan Emperor, the Quitenian Inca Atahualpa, began these activities in these areas. This attempt to integrate these people into the Incan realm proved unsuccessful, however, as the indigenous tribes generally did not accept these practices, and those that arrived were considered spies, and were unable to attain a social connection to these people.

We also know that the Southern invaders used these paths and trails that pass by San Jorge. They were built thousands of years ago before the Incas came to these locations. In those days, from Cotocollao County, it was easy to hike uphill, until you reached 3500 mts. This is the highest point of the highland valley before you begin to descend to the coastal interiors. These roadways were used by average citizens, soldiers, travelers, mitimaes and traders traveling with their llamas. Llamas were commonly used for transportation in those times.

These roads also were used by the Chasquis, or human mail express; couriers who by their remarkable running speed were capable of transmitting messages in amazing record time. A single Chasqui would run a distance of approx.1200 mts, while a second CHASQUI was waiting for the information to pass on, in a fashion similar to a relay race. This process made for a very fast and efficient service.

It is obvious that these trails were already in place before the Incas, but they did repair and improve these great land connections. The NoNo Alto Valley route was heavily travelled, also used by the Incas for the fastest connection to Tulipe, which was the main religious center in the northwest coast interior area. In Tulipe, there is evidence of a castle and a grand swimming pool built by the Incan Empire. In 1530 A.D. Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror of Peru, gave Spanish Captain John Lobato de Sosa, the land of the Cotocollaos and the Yumbos. This gift was given in thanks for his help in conquering the Incan Empire. In those days, San Jorge Botanical Reserve was part of this land. In 1560 A.D., the Cotocallao County was founded. The captains lived together with an Indian noble, Isabel Yarupalla who was the wife of Atahualpa. Atahualpa was the last emperor killed by the Spanish conquers in Cajamarca.

Once Emperor Atahualpa was killed, Ruminahui, a brave and cruel Incan army general, arrived in Quito and destroyed the city. He killed the virgins and hid all the gold and silver treasures that the Incas in Quito had. History tells us he fled with four thousand women and eleven sons of Atahualpa to the land of the Yumbos. He used the shorter route, (San Jorge). The Spanish persecuted him because they wanted to know where he hid his treasures. We know that these trails were used by the last Incan nobles, particularly the children of Emperor Atahualpa and Ruminahui, who were desperately trying to run away from the conquers. When they arrived in Quito they only found ashes.

The Yumbos country wasn't new to the heroes. Huayna Capac conquered this country.This army became an important ceremonial and governmental infrastructure.

Archaeologist Ronald Lippi has found evidence of Incan sling stones in Palmitopamba and Tulipe. It appears as though the last descendants of the Incan Emperor, along with the noble women were captured between Palmitopamba, Gualea, Las Tolas and Tulipe. This occurred after the fight between Ruy Diaz and Ruminahui.

Sebastian de Benalcazar, the Spanish Quito conqueror, desperate for the treasures, decided to seek out and find Ruminahui. He sent a soldier named Ruy Diaz and seventy soldiers to locate him in the "land of the Yumbos". Diaz never found Ruminahui, but he returned to Quito with some silver and gold cups, rich fabrics, belonging to Huayna Capac, Atahualpas father. He also brought back many beautiful women, along with Atahualpa's sons.

Ruminahui was captured afterward, but never revealed where the treasure was hidden, even though he was interrogated brutally. To this day, no one actually knows where the treasure was hidden. So in essence, the treasures of Quito, the noble Quitenian women and the sons of Atahualpa were safe in the Yumbos before Ruy Diaz captured them. It is clear that the Quitenian gold treasure was hidden in some area of the Yumbos land, or in some place on the trail to the Yumbos because these treasures became a problem for Ruminahui to carry because he had to move faster, once he was being pursued.

San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve Expeditions
The road that takes us from Quito to the Yumbos land (Tulipe and surrounding areas) crosses San Jorge Botanical Reserve. We now have biking, horseback riding, hiking and bird watching expeditions along this ancient road. We can still see the coluncus, old road vestiges when we visit this area. Our expeditions cover all of this land taking us to Tulipe. There also are one, two and three day Archeological tours. They could be done by hiking, horseback riding, biking or simply by car. Traveling through these mountains and jungles with the panoramic views of the mountains, flora and fauna makes for a wonderful sight seeing adventure. It also becomes reminiscent of the area's pure and explosive history.

18th Century History
Pedro Vicente Maldonado, and Ecuadorian scientists improved the pre-Inca roads around the 18th Century. French Scientists, La Condamine, Godin and Bouguer traveled these roads in order to measure the Middle of the World. This road went down to Pedernales in the Manabi province. This area was known as the Selva Florida, (Flowered Jungle) because of its enormous and beautiful biodiversity. Jesuit priests owned this property before it was divided into the Singuna Farm.
In 1905, General Flavio Alfaro and Ecuadorian President Eloy Alfaro were the owners of San Jorge (Singuna) Farm. The Singuna farmhouse was built near the pre-Incan roads. President Alfaro was a liberal and one of the most important Presidents of Ecuador. He was the only one who made changes in Ecuadorian society. He created civil marriage, divorce, public schools and high schools. He stopped the political power of the church and created the train from Quito to Guayaquil. In 1912, he and his political party were murdered in Quito. During the beginning of the 20th Century, these roads were used by the sugar cane and liquor smugglers, in order for them to evade paying their taxes.

Today's San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve
Dr. George Cruz, a Veterinarian, presently owns San Jorge Botanical Reserve. Dr. Cruz has a strong love for nature and history. He and his family have worked hard in order to preserve the property and transform the Singuna Farm into a magnificent Eco-Lodge. San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve has been in business for over 15 years and has carved quite a reputation amongst students of ecology, teachers, eco-adventure travelers and nature lovers who visit this charming retreat located in the Pichincha foothills.

Presently, all of the international promotion is being developed by Cheryl Korowotny, an adventurous and knowledgeable American woman.
Ms. Korowotny is making great advances bringing international awareness of this Andes treasure that is known today as San Jorge Eco-Lodge & Botanical Reserve.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1527 Bartolome de las Casas - Opusculos cartas Memoriales

1553 Pedro Cieza de Leon - Cronica del Peru

1560 Garcilazo de la Vega - Comentarios Reales de los Incas

1572 Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa - Historia de los Incas

1600 Comentarios Reales Incas - Bibiloteca Peruana Tom 2, Lima

1892 Federico Gonzales Suarez - Historia General de la Republica del Ecuador

1971 Salomon, Frank & Clark, Erickson - Tulipe, un Recinto Sagrado en la Montana Ecuatoriana

1980 Lippi, Ronald - Antiguos Caminos Noroocidentales de Quito

1981 Museo Antropoligico del Banco Central - Los primeros hombres del Ecuador

1982 Arqueologia de Quito Fase 1 Cotocollao Padre Porras

2000 Eduardo Almeida Reyes - Culturas pre hispanaicas del Ecuador 2001 Culturas prehispanicas del Ecuador Chaquinan

2003 Segunda E Moreno - Alamientos indigenas en la Audiencia de Quito

2003 Tras las Huellas de Ruminahui Tamara Estupinan

2003 Eduardo Almeida Reyes - Monumentos Arqueologicos del Ecuador

 

Cheryl Korowotny
International Director
The Magic Birding & Photography  Circuit
SAN JORGE ECO-LODGES & BOTANICAL RESERVES
Quito – Tandayapa – Milpe - Cosanga - Estero Hondo-Sumaco Bajo-Guacamayos
Ecuador – South America
Email: birdwatching@eco-lodgesanjorge.com
(877) 565-2596 Toll Free USA & Canada.

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San Jorge has been awarded the Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence for the past 11 consecutive years!