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Trip report for San Jorge Magic Birding Circuit
March 1-12, 2010

I knew that I wanted to go to Ecuador for a birding trip; however could not decide whether to wing it and see what I could find on my own or go on a guided tour. I am genetically wired to avoid tours and groups of people. However, after much research and discussion with my two birding companions, also
ladies from Idaho, we decided to try the San Jorge Magic Birding Tour and Eco-lodges. Their website caught my attention immediately with the lure of multiple birding localities and varied habitat. I was also intrigued by the idea of having an Ecuadorian guide, who could also introduce us to the many facets
of his country.

Selecting San Jorge was a GREAT! decision. We had a fabulous time with George, who I prefer to call Jorge, his delightful and talented wife Irina, and all of the kind and efficient staff at his lodges. Fabulous birding! Five star food—and lots of it! All of the accommodations were comfortable. If you do not speak Spanish, not to worry. Jorge’s English is excellent. Jose –probably your first contact when you arrive at Quito—speaks excellent English and is always ready to help. Now a little more about the experience.

Jorge is an amazing man and naturalist. He’s full of energy and even a bit of mischief! I especially liked his approach to the birding part of the trip. We were up at the crack of dawn and out in late afternoon to maximize opportunities to see birds. Jorge works incredibly hard to help you see birds and is very effective (but sensitive to the birds) with the laser pointer. That is no easy task in the dense vegetation. I especially liked the fact that he would continually point out birds that we had already seen. As it turned out, this technique gave us many views in different lighting, and by the end of the trip, I quickly
recognized some birds by sound or general impression. I also learned to spot birds better in the dense foliage. Jorge’s English is excellent—as is his sense of humor. He is also very sensitive to the varied physical abilities and birding skills within the group. He works hard to make sure that everyone has an opportunity to see the birds. We were also lucky that there were no scope hogs in the group. The group size was perfect. We never had more than 8 people. For a few days the three Idaho ladies had Jorge and Irina to ourselves. How lucky we were! It gave us a chance not only to have incredible birding but also to get to know these two wonderful people much better.

What can I say about the diversity of birds! Ecuador is unbelievable, and we only scratched the surface. Hummingbirds at Tandayapa are abundant, varied, and enchanting. I—we all-- spent hours watching the hummingbirds. Tandayapa has been carefully laid out with many comfortable viewing sites to watch
hummers on feeders and also in vegetation. Great photo ops! Coming from the US where there are only a few species of tanagers, I was astounded by the variety and beauty of tanagers in Ecuador. At Tandayapa, feeding stations and fruiting trees afford spectacular views of those gorgeous birds and lots others. I saw more than 325 species on this trip. Of those there were only a few migrants that we see in the United States. The burrowing owl near the field where workers were harvesting artichokes by hand was a special surprise, delivered by Jorge.

Jorge has thoughtfully laid out a birding circuit—if you take the 12 day trip-- which transects multiple habitats at varied elevations on the west and east side of the Andes. We birded on the west side of the Andes at about 1000 meters in tropical rainforest at Milpe, 1500 meters at Tandayapa, and from 1500 meters to about 3000 meters on the Nono Mindo road. San Jorge Lodge—the historic lodge and staging area is at about 3000 meters northwest of Quito. We birded around that property and also at Yanacocha, which is a reserve near San Jorge at +3000 meters. On the east side, Jorge does not have a private lodge, but instead we stayed ay at wonderful cabanas in Baeza called Kopal Cabanas. They also serve fantastic pizza—as good as anywhere in the USA. The east side trip took us from >4000 meters at Papaletta Pass to upper Amazon rainforest. Unfortunately some major storms kept us from Cosanga Reserve, but that did not deter Jorge. He always has an ace up his sleeve, and the alternate route led us to torrent ducks and quetzals. Wow!

If you can’t do the full 12 day trip, even the shorter trips will get you into many varied habitats and lots of birds.  I could go on and on about the birding part of this trip, but there were so many other aspects that made the trip even more special. Irina—Jorge’s wife—is a talented chef who creates wonderful food with fresh, local ingredients. Fresh fruits and juices were on the menu every morning at breakfast. Delicious empanadas, fresh locally farmed trout, local vegetables were all perfectly cooked at artistically presented. Each plate was a work of art that we could not wait to dive into. Soups are standard in Ecuador, and Irina has created a variety of soups for lunch and dinner that were so delicious. You will not go hungry, and if you are not careful may even put on a pound or two.

I am not sure this review has done justice to the San Jorge experience: birds, people, food, lodging, habitats, new friends. Memories of Stalin and his family at Tandayapa; Jose and Vincente at San Jorge; Carmello and family at Milpe. Wonderful, hardworking, people who have a passion for making the San Jorge experience special. Beautiful country and beautiful people.

With so many places to bird in the world, I would go back to San Jorge in a heartbeat! It is an incredible value for the cost. Jorge and his family put much energy and money into conservation efforts. Truly one of the greatest trips of my life.

Happy birding and travels.
Falma Moye, Ph.D.
Geologist
Idaho, USA

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The Magic Birding Circuit, Ecuador
April 15 – April 26, 2009

We have just spent 10 days birding in Ecuador on The Magic Birding Circuit and, despite the weather, saw well over 300 birds. What a great concept this is; there are 4 privately owned birding reserves and 3 excellent lodges. The circuit starts with pickup at Quito airport and includes all meals, lodging, transportation and bird guiding. All is run by the Ecuadorian people.

We spent 2 nights in Quito then headed over the Papallacta Pass (13,000+ ft.) to Baeza for 2 nights and some “Oriente” birding. Back over the pass to Quito for a night, then birded the famous Nono-Mindo road en route to the Tandayapa lodge where we spent 2 nights. Then it was off to the Milpe lodge via the famous Mindo tower (has to be seen to be believed) for 3 nights. Back to Quito via “Mitad del Mundo” (the equator) for a final night before our trip to the Galapagos.

George Cruz, General Manager was our bird guide for most of the time and he was excellent, full of knowledge about the birds, the plants and their medicinal properties. We also had a couple of young local guides at Milpe and they were both very good.

The lodges are excellent; all rooms have private facilities and the beds are very comfortable. The meals were mostly typical Ecuadorian cuisine and we didn’t suffer hunger after four course lunches and dinners!!
A certain degree of physical fitness is required to cope with both the altitude and some of the walks.

Highly recommended.
A.H.
T. B.
St. John’s, NL Canada

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ECUADOR TRIP REPORT
November 5-13, 2008

Even though I have had the privilege of birding in Ecuador three times prior to this trip, I was really excited about the prospects of seeing some new species.

Our base, the main lodge, San Jorge Eco-Lodge de quito, a High Barrren Plains/Highland Rainforest, only a 15 minute drive from historical downtown Quito, situated in a prime montane setting, offering comfortable accommodations, excellent cuisine, great birding with numerous hummingbird species at the feeders, and it is strategically located, allowing easy access to many other famous birding hot spots. Taking advantage of each day, rain or shine, we were in for a jam-packed week with Jorge , the owner of San Jorge Ecolodges , our expert guide, and viewing new species daily.

On the first day, 3:30AM, my first life bird was a Rufous-banded Owl calling, then appearing as if by magic on a nearby branch in an open area near the lobby. Late afternoon birding was at the San Jorge de Milpe Orchid & Bird Reserve, a Subtropical Rainforest. Birding the trails at Milpe for two days was very productive. Maroon-tailed Parakeets, Rose-faced and Bronze-winged Parrots, 15 species of hummingbirds, Choco Toucan, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, several Euphonias, 25 species of Tanagers, including Mountain-Tanagers to name a few.

We left the San Jorge de Quito after an early breakfast to reach the Papallacta Pass and Cuyuja, High Barren Plains and Highland Amazon Tropical Rainforest early for the prime birding time. After exploring the San Jorge de Cosanga-Yanayuca Bird & Wildlife Reserve in the Andean Cloud Forest, we overnighted in Baeza at a simple, but comfortable and quiet hotel, after delicious meals at local restaurants. At precisely 5:30 AM, we saw the incredible Swallow-tailed Nightjar. White-throated Quail-Dove, Golden-headed Quetzal, Choco Trogon, several Aracaris and Toucans, Crimson-bellied Woodpecker (Rare), Cinclodes, Spinetails, Canasteros, Folliage-gleaners, Woodcreepers, Antwrens, Antbirds, Marbled-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Tyrannulets and Flycatchers, Golden-winged Manakin, Thrush-like Schiffornis, Turquoise and Inca Jays, Wrens, Warblers, Yellow-tufted Dacnis, Flowerpiercers, and many colorful Tanagers were some of the sightings.

Birding the Tandayapa Valley , along the Nono/Mindo Road ,the San Jorge Hummingbird Sanctuary and Lodge almost finished, we ticked off Red-billed and White-capped Parrots, another 18 species of hummers, a female Cock-of-the Rock flew into view, several wrens, Conebills, and new Flowerpiercers, more Tanagers especially Mountain-Tanagers, and Brush-finches.

We tallied over 300 species, plus 28 heard, and of course, 24 life birds for myself. All in all, a very satisfying trip, with no problems, and one that I would highly recommend. I am in the process of planning another such birding adventure, with some tweaking. I can hardly wait to return to Ecuador, and the lovely San Jorge Eco-Lodges. Truly an unforgettable experience to treasure.

Olga Clarke, Travel Director
LOS ANGELES AUDUBON SOCIETY

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FLIGHTS OF FANCY ADVENTURES, INC.
ECUADOR: “UP AND DOWN” THE AMAZON TO THE ANDES
FEBRUARY 3-16, 2008

Perhaps our most diverse FOFA group ever landed in Quito, Ecuador, comprised of six individuals from Connecticut, Massachusetts, New York, Ohio and Sydney, Australia. Quito immediately takes your breath away, even when you arrive in pitch darkness. At 10,000 feet elevation, every step is an effort, so pausing to take in the spectacular scenery is rewarding both aesthetically and because it allows you to catch your breath. Read the rest of the trip report...

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The Birding & Hiking Circuit in Ecuador
Trip Report and Bird List
October 21 – 28, 2008
Author: Anthony Gucciardi
Tour Leader: Dr. Jorge Cruz; San Jorge Eco-Tours

The reason I decided venture to Ecuador was because of the immense number of bird species the country is home to. With Mindo setting the world record in December of 2007, and with a long history of world class birding, Ecuador was the next place to for me to migrate. Although the birds of Ecuador were my main motivation, I also wanted to experience the biodiversity throughout the country; I wanted ample opportunity to see the Amazon, the Rainforest, the high peaks of resident mountains, and also a chance to mingle with the culture. My only problem is that I didn’t know where to begin. My research prior to leaving for Ecuador brought me to a privately owned Hacienda turned Eco-Lodge called San Jorge Eco-Lodges & Botanical Reserves. I was told it was owned by a man named Dr. Jorge Cruz, a veterinarian who was now an avid bird watcher, and also very knowledgeable with Ecuadorian culture and history. I’ve listed a detailed itinerary below, with the bird list to follow. Read the rest of the trip report...

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Thank you so much for the fantastic 20 days we stayed at San Jorge Quito and San Jorge de Milpe. Bird watching the Magic Birding Circuit with you was absolutely glorious; we saw a total of 405 different Ecuadorian bird species. All 5 of your reserves are basically untouched and pristine and your 2 Eco-Lodges are beautiful. The food was delicious and made with caring hands. The personal care and thoughtfulness by George, Irina and all the staff was very much appreciated by both of us.

We would definitely recommend The Magic Birding Circuit of San Jorge Botanical Reserve, San Jorge de Milpe, Tandayapa, Yanayacu and Cosanga to all who visit beautiful Ecuador.

Gerry and Denise Doekes
Norval,ON Canada

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The Magic Birding Circuit Trip Report
March 2007

March 4, 2007
Arrive Quito Airport, Dr. George Cruz waiting for us with very warm and friendly greetings, we transferred over to Hosteria San Jorge Botanical and Eco-Lodge. A big beautiful room with a cozy fireplace awaited us. It was such a joy to stay here and be so close to the city of Quito at the same time./p>

March 5, 2007
We had a day of rest to get acclimatized to the high altitude. After an excellent breakfast we then birded around the beautiful San Jorge Hosteria and Botanical Reserve. We had a 4-course lunch and dinner; all of the meals at both San Jorge’s Quito and de Milpe Eco-Lodges are varied and delicious. The grounds surrounding the main Hosteria San Jorge Quito are full of gardens and wild flowers and very beautiful. The highland forest surrounds the Hosteria and as you go up in elevation it changes into Paramo, absolutely breath taking.

Read the rest of the Trip Report

Birding List

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A Birding trip report from The Magic Birding Circuit of Ecuador

MAGIC BIRDING CIRCUIT plus some time on our own at SAN JORGE ECO-LODGES & BOTANICAL RESERVES ~ Quito
Dec. 28, 2006 - Jan 7, 2007
(5 days of guided birding - Jan 3-7)
Leaders- Dr. George Cruz B. and
Son, Jorge Cruz A.
PARTICIPANTS – (**For 4 days of other-not guided birding, activities, Marilyn’s daughters Vanessa and Erin were along; for the first day of guided birding, novice birders Cybele and Chad Schorr were along)

Photo at top of page: Dr. George Cruz A
All other photos in report: Dave and Marilyn Binkley

Click here to read rest of report