Name: Dion Crushshon
Upper School Grade Dean
Director of International and Off-Campus Programs
Country-City:Minnesota, USA.
Via Holbrook Travel

March 15
We experienced a full day of travel from Minneapolis to Quito, the capital of Ecuador. We arrived in Quito at 10:00 pm and were greeted by Dr. Jorge Cruz, the owner/manager of San Jorge, and our guide Patricia. Jorge was friendly and accommodating (as was Patricia). Little did we know at the time how much we would grow to appreciate them both. The lodge was located twenty minutes outside of the city, tucked away in the Pinchicha mountain bluffs. From the lodge we overlooked the capital city, which has more than 2 million inhabitants, many of them living in poverty. As we wound our way up the steep hills on our way to the lodge, we were struck by the many stray “ecua-dogs” we saw out of the bus windows. We counted more than a dozen by the time we reached the lodge. Looking out the windows of the bus we saw many homes made of concrete blocks that seemed to be half-finished or semi-destroyed, some without roofs and others seeming to be missing walls. Many had long, crowded clotheslines hanging outside of windows and connected to poles or trees many meters away. Mothers and children sat on street corners or in front of dilapidated concrete houses and motorcyclists and tourist buses zoomed by. Later we learned that it was so difficult and costly for your average Ecuadorian to obtain loans that their homes were half-finished because they could only purchase bricks and concrete in small portions.

As we neared the lodge, the mud road made us all a little nervous, as it seemed we were climbing a hill to nowhere nice. But shortly, we would discover the riches that awaited us at San Jorge Lodge.

By 11:00 pm we were in our rooms but still too anxious and restless to sleep. The lodge was a sprawling campus, with several different buildings. As we would soon discover, we would be dining a short hike down the hill, while our rooms surrounded a small beautifully planted courtyard at the top of the hill. The rooms consisted of plaster walls, dark wood beams on the ceilings, with a tiled bathroom and stone fireplace in every room.

March 16
We awoke at 8:00 and had our first meal in Ecuador. Unfamiliar fruits, heated milk to which we could add cocoa mix or instant coffee, fresh fruit juice, and scrambled eggs were the fare. On our walk back to our rooms we all became fully aware of the altitude, as our lodge was located at 9300 feet above sea level. Huffing and puffing, we climbed the steep path between the restaurant and our rooms.

Although we had only just arrived by 9:30 am we were ready to depart. With our backpacks filled with enough clothing for three days, we left San Jorge Quito and headed to San Jorge Milpe, located two hours away in the tropical rainforest. Thankfully, we were also going from 9300 feet to 3000 feet. We all appreciated the chance to slowly acclimatize to the altitude.

On the bus ride from Quito to Milpe was when we first realized the extensive knowledge of our host Jorge Cruz. Over the course of two hours he intermittently educated us about the culture, climate, geography, history, and peoples of Ecuador. We learned about almost every small town we passed through and we were made to understand the different climate steps we were passing through (from the Andes highlands to the cloud forest to the tropical rain forest, and whatever came in between). We also passed by the famous monument that indicates the “center of the world,” that being the equator. We were reminded that north of the equator water drains counter-clockwise, south of the equator, water drains clock-wise, and directly on the equator, water drains straight down.

Two hours after leaving Quito we arrived at the Tandayapa Hummingbird Reserve where we would begin our first service project. Here we lathered on the insect repellent and sunscreen, received our working gloves and gardening tools, and hiked our way up numerous switchbacks to an open area where we would begin planting native tree species -- helliconia and two types of palms. The goal was, we learned, that these trees would hopefully grow over time and provide food to parrots and other birds that were becoming endangered due to the loss of their natural habitat. For two hours we dug holes, filled in compost, and planted three varieties of trees, all the while swatting mosquitoes and marveling over the astounding varieties of hummingbirds. What made this task most challenging was the steepness of the terrain, which left many scrambling up and down the banks between trails.

We had a bag lunch, the highlight of which was not the food but the view over the surrounding valley. The students marveled at the various species of hummingbirds that were taking advantage of the many feeders, sometimes four to a feeder; looking up from eating, it was easy to see a dozen jewel-colored hummingbirds whizzing around.

After lunch and clean-up, Jorge demonstrated many bird calls for us and explained to us the varieties of birds that existed at this climate step. He did this as we stood in a gentle rain, enjoying at the beauty of the undisturbed tree canopy we could see from the hillside. We then loaded the bus once again and headed into the tropical rainforest. After bumping along a dirt road the likes of which many of us had never seen, we eventually arrived at the lodge where we would stay for the next two-nights.

Dinner that night was a tasty soup, fresh trout, potatoes, and vegetables finished off with a fresh fig in rum sauce with a slice of locally produced cheese similar in taste and consistency to mozzarella. The rain poured all evening. The boys had to trek through the rain 15 minutes each way from their lodge to the restaurant. The girls lucked out and had the lodge adjacent to the restaurant, as well as a breathtaking view of a huge cloudy canyon thickly carpeted with trees on both sides. When we returned to our rooms, we were unexpectedly met by hundreds of insects and exotic moths (some nearly the size of dinner plates). The boys very soon appreciated the fifteen foot high ceilings while the girls, no longer feeling lucky, did their best to exterminate the unwanted room guests but to no avail. Neither group was feeling lucky when we realized that due to heavy rains and mechanical problems we were without running water. Ho hum, we were in the rainforest and it was exciting and fascinating.

March 17
Today we awoke to more rain. Just about everything we had with us was either soaking wet or extremely damp – even the clothes we hadn’t worn yet were damp due to the humidity. We could tell it was going to be a wet day. After a great breakfast of fresh fruit, juice, eggs, rolls, and great tasting espresso (or hot cocoa) mixed with warm milk, we were ready to venture forth. Jorge took a few minutes to educate us about all the various fruits of the forest and their respective health benefits, as some of us were wary of the fruits we had never seen before, including tree tomato, naranjilla, and others.

We loaded the bus and headed down to the local primary school (a one room school house where children from grades one to six were taught by two dedicated teachers). The lack of resources in the school was striking. We were told that the nearby village only had a population of 300.

We were to spend the next three and a half hours painting the exterior and interior of the building. But before we began, Jorge gave us a brief lesson on the history of Ecuador, its 37 presidents, the significance of colors of the flag, the national bird -- the giant vulture which is the world’s largest flying bird, and the fairly recent creation of the middle class. We then started to sand the walls inside and out. Mostly everyone jumped into the job with gusto. When we realized we needed tarps of some sort to place on the ground, a little boy of about eight years old provided us with a machete with which we could cut off big leaves from a banana tree down the hill. After chopping 15-20 six foot long banana leaves, we were ready to go. Slowly, little village boys came to the school to watch us work, and after not too long an Ecuadorian soccer game broke out. Students alternated playing soccer and painting. By 12:30 the school had a fresh coat of warm orange paint and everyone was playing soccer except for the few stalwarts doing touch-ups.

After lunch, as we waited for our bus to retrieve us, a modified game of Duck Duck Grey Duck began; modified because it went: “pato blanco, pato rojo, pato amarillo…” It was wonderful to see how enthusiastic our students were to play this game with the young boys, even though it entailed sitting on the concrete while the rain gently fell. Playing with the little boys was the highlight of the morning and the Spanish speakers in the group were happy to be able to practice their Spanish.

As we still had thirty minutes to wait, a local village woman took us on a brief tour of the village where we were able to view two properties, go inside one of the homes, visit the market, and load up on Ecuadorian snacks. No one could believe the prices – so very inexpensive and surprisingly tasty.

Once we returned to our lodge, we got out of our paint splattered work clothes and put on our swimsuits. Jorge and Patricia led us on a hike to the waterfalls on the property – they were unbelievable. Some of us visited six waterfalls in all (the largest being nearly thirty meters high), while those who preferred a shorter hike, visited three. We all swam in the natural pools created by the waterfalls in this lush rainforest. We were all thrilled after this experience with these natural wonders. Once again, Jorge amazed us when we learned that he and five others had created the trails that switched back for miles and scaled 900 meters. An interesting note is that Jorge purchased the property without even realizing that the waterfalls existed—this was an added bonus he discovered only after he came to check out what he had bought! Muddy, wet, exhausted, but jubilant, we returned to our lodges for a brief rest before dinner.

Dinner was a tasty soup, followed by rice, beans, and pan-fried chicken. The topper was dessert, an Ecuadorian specialty called a quimbolito, which is a like a small cake, except that it is steamed wrapped in a banana leaf. After dinner Jorge took us on an hour-long night hike where we called to the owls and enjoyed the sounds of the forest. Pausing every so often to listen, we all turned off our flashlights at one point so that we could experience the full effect of the rainforest at night, complete with frog croaks, cricket chirps, and owl hoots. At 9:00 pm we were finished with our hike and returned to the welcome dry warmth of our beds.

March 18
On this morning we had breakfast at 8:00, which was again scrumptious fruit, juice, espresso with hot milk, and eggs. By 9:30 we were on the bus and headed out of the rainforest and back to Quito. But before we left, we stopped by the little schoolhouse and donated school supplies to the principal intended for the use of the students.

On the way back to Quito we made a few stops to load up with snacks and refreshments. We stopped in Cali Cali, the original location of the monument to the discovery of the equator that was made by an expedition of French scientists in the 1800s. We had a chance to check out the small Ecuadorian town and take advantage of a “middle of the world” monument photo-op and telephone stop.

Once we returned to San Jorge we enjoyed a modest lunch and then went directly to work. Our service for the day was hoeing and planting in the organic garden. We cleared weeds around potato plants and planted all types of organic vegetables – lettuce, cabbage, spinach, beets, and carrots. The students worked with diligence digging, hoeing, planting and weeding.

At 3:30 pm, we were scheduled for a medicinal plant tour in the highlands, but we were just too exhausted to comply. Instead, the students enjoyed the pool, Turkish bath, sauna, and hot tub while the adults read, napped and relaxed. Our late dinner consisted of popcorn, a fresh bean dish, chicken and vegetable soup, fresh trout, and potatoes, finished off with cooked banana (mmmm). After dinner, we enjoyed our warm rooms, hot showers, and much needed down time.

March 19
On this morning we arrived for breakfast and the students were pleasantly surprised with some familiar sugared cereal that followed the fresh fruit. Again, the coffee was great, as was the juice.

At 9:30 am, Jorge arrived and led us to the salon (a museum, for all intents and purposes). He first shared with us the historical significance of the multiple murals painted on the walls just outside the salon, which depicted indigenous dances and ceremonies, religious processions, and other cultural and historical details of Ecuador. We were incredulous when we learned that Jorge was responsible for all the murals (one of which can be seen in the attached photo) and framed paintings on the walls (which numbered over 200 beautiful watercolors!). In addition to the historical paintings, Jorge had painted startling depictions of all the hummingbird varieties existing in the Pinchicha highlands.

After viewing the paintings we entered the salon and were awed as Jorge explained and passed around incredible artifacts he had collected from the surrounding areas over the past 15-20 years. There were artifacts from northern Ecuador more than 3200 years old representing pre-Incan societies (tools, miniature figurines, weapons, and more), artifacts from the west coast of Ecuador which represented a different culture, time period, and society, more than 2500 hundred years old, as well as artifacts from the Incan period. The adults were just a little nervous as Jorge passed around the priceless pottery and artifacts for the all to touch and hold. Fortunately, all the artifacts were handled with the care they warranted. It was an unexpected treat to learn so much about archeology and the rich history of the area from such a knowledgeable source.

After the tour of the salon and accompanying lecture, we headed down the hill from the lodge and visited a nearby school where we were able to meet the principal, interact with the little children, and leave some school supplies we had brought from the States to donate. Once again, the lack of resources was apparent and our donations were greatly appreciated. The children loved shaking hands with our students and trying out their English and we felt honored to witness one of the classes practicing a traditional dance. As we were leaving, we saw a group of 6-7 year old pupils gathered around an older student who was already reading one of the picture books that was donated. It was a feel-good experience and we didn’t want to leave).

From the school, we headed back up the hill to volunteer at the mud brick factory. The small “factory” was owned by a local family and represented the traditional method of brick making and house building, which is now facing competition from the concrete blocks which have begun to replace mud bricks. The process of making mud bricks, we learned, involved excavation of the cliff, breaking down the dirt clumps, adding water to the dirt in a hand-operated machine, using forms to create the brick shape, and cooking them in a two story oven.

We worked hard for four hours digging and pounding dirt. It wasn’t exciting but the progress we made was noticeable and appreciated by the family. The little woman of indeterminate age who headed the family impressed us all as she scrambled up and down the ladder and screamed orders to use in indecipherable Spanish.

At 2:00 pm lunch was brought from the lodge to us and we enjoyed a traditional meal of salad, pork chops, lima beans, and boiled potatoes. We were all too tired and hungry to complain about the rain that fell as we ate.

After the mud brick factory, we returned to the lodge. We took an hour to nap, rest, or hit the Turkish bath before it was time for our afternoon hike. At 4:00 pm we met up with Jorge and we began our medicinal plant tour up in the surrounding highlands (upper rainforest). Jorge educated us on all the varieties of plants and trees, native and invasive and their medicinal properties (e.g. the eucalyptus tree is an invasive species that adversely impacts native species due to the toxins that it releases into the soil, however it serves well as a decongestant and helps clear bronchial tubes). We hiked high into the Pinchicha Mountains, up to 10,000 feet, and the highlight was seeing Jorge call an Undulating Tanager and have it respond. Immediately after Jorge explained that these birds are frequently heard but very rarely seen, much to his amazement the bird hopped out of the tress right in front of us, allowing us to capture it on film. Jorge was exhilarated as he stated he had never in his life seen the bird, which means that it was truly a rare bird indeed. Jorge was oh so pleased to add the picture to his collection of photos representing nearly 1100 varieties of birds inhabiting Ecuador (we subsequently learned that Jorge is working on a book about the birds of Ecuador).

By 6:00 pm we started to worry that we might not make it back to the lodge before sundown, so we stopped just short of the waterfall. Jorge pointed up to a peak that loomed far off in the distance and explained we would reach that peak above the tree line tomorrow on our horseback ride. We then turned and began our descent. What took 90 minutes to climb took some students only12 minutes to descend, as they ran the entire way.

Dinner was served at 7:30 pm and everyone devoured the tasty empanadas that they received but no one was prepared for the whole fish (trout) that was subsequently placed before them. It was very tasty fare for those few who could get beyond the head, skin, and bones.

March 20
Today was a day that will not soon be forgotten. After another delicious breakfast at 8:00 am, we returned to our rooms to get ready for our highly anticipated horseback ride up into the Pinchicha Mountains and we were not disappointed. The ride was amazing.

At 10:00 am the caballeros were waiting for us. There were twenty-seven mustangs and one mule ready to go. After mounting up, most of us were very excited while some were a bit nervous about the prospects of climbing a mountain on a horse, but the horses proved to be steady, even-tempered, and reliable. We had three guides with us along with Jorge. As we started our ascent we were a little taken aback when we were guided through a narrow mountain path with many tree branches and bushes to steer around. Some of us were not so lucky through that path and found the branches unavoidable, but besides a few scratches, and a couple dropped hats and water bottles we made it out. Then came the steep part. Up and up we went, passing cows and bulls along the way. At 11,000 feet we thought we were high, but we were told we still had a ways to go to reach the final climate step we would encounter in Ecuador -- the High Barren Plain at 4,000 meters. Surprisingly, there were a number of farms and cattle up on the highlands. We learned that potatoes, sweet potatoes, and lima beans were the crops of choice at high altitude. We passed a little old lady who was tending her farm and we also saw a family of llamas grazing high above us.

Slowly we wound our way up the mountain. Every meter higher it got colder and cloudier, until we were literally in the clouds and could not see fifty yards ahead or behind. Right as we reached the top, the clouds opened, and the rain started coming down. We all dismounted and made for the nearest bush for cover. We ate our lunch while the rain poured and slowly the remaining clouds parted and the city came into view. Minutes later, the rain was done and gone, leaving us wet and chilled but still marveling at the view of Quito from up high.

We had a few moments for taking pictures and sharing opinions about our respective horses before we mounted up again. It had taken us three hours to reach 12,000 feet elevation. As we started down, we realized that the rain had turned the trail into a muddy mess. More than a few of us were uneasy as the horses descended the muddy path. The deep furrows in the narrow path made the trail treacherous and scary, but the horses came through like champions. Ninety minutes later we were back at the bottom, exhausted and exhilarated.

We thanked our guides and headed for the warmth of the sauna and Turkish bath.

Our dinner consisted of a great vegetable soup in chicken broth, beef, potatoes, vegetables, and crepes for dessert. Again, no complaints there.

March 21
Today we visited the city of Quito. Quito means “home of the hummingbirds” as there are more than 120 varieties of hummingbirds in the land, which is a world record. Jorge explained to us that after independence from Spain, Ecuador used to be a part of a much larger Columbia until war and strife broke apart the country into three separate and independent countries, Ecuador, Colombia and Peru. The name Ecuador was chosen because of its obvious location on the equator. Jorge told us it should have really been called Volcano Land because it is the home of 60 volcanoes, 44 inland and 16 on the Galapagos – another world record.

By this point in out trip we were all quite comfortable and familiar with each other and Jorge’s immense knowledge coupled with his avuncular demeanor made him the most popular person on the bus (although the young and charismatic Canadian volunteer, Anthony who accompanied us came in a close second).

No surprise, Jorge, demonstrated an incredible knowledge of the city’s geography and history. When we reached the center of the old part of Quito, the bus dropped us off at the Plaza Grande and Jorge explained the significance of the buildings that surrounded the plaza. There was the first Jesuit cathedral, the presidential palace, the home of the archbishop, and the national library. We entered the cathedral and marveled at the gold embossed and inlayed ceiling while Jorge explained that the cathedral was constructed by the native Indians and took almost a century to complete.

While we walked around, Jorge pointed out and explained the differences between the Spanish baroque architecture and the French rococo designs. We did not enter Church of Santa Domingo because of the entry fee, but we subsequently learned that the ceiling was covered in 700 tons of gold, so much so that if it were sold it could pay off the national debt of Ecuador. Lastly, on this part of our tour, we visited the Merced church, which provided an example of Moorish influenced architecture and religious paintings.

After walking the plaza and visiting the churches, we then made our way into the presidential palace, where the students took pictures next to completely still presidential honor guards who in Jorge’s words “will not move for nothing.” At the same time, we could not help but notice the “real” guards at each entrance dressed in military fatigues and carrying submachine guns.

For lunch, we went to the San Augustin restaurant that has been around for 150 years and was the location of childhood meals for Jorge with his family. We had a choice of vegetables, chicken, beef, lamb, or sea bass, and all plates were clean at the end, without exception. The food was sooo good. To top it off we were given a traditional ice cream made right on the premises. Our choices were chocolate, raspberry, blackberry, strawberry, and exotic fruit. Again, no bowls were left unfinished. Then, as if enough was not enough, a platter of fresh cookies and pastries was passed around for all to enjoy. We just couldn’t stop talking about the food after we left.

Afterwards, we had an hour to explore on our own, and then the bus picked us up and brought us to an indigenous artisan market where we spent a little more than an hour browsing and purchasing authentic Ecuadorian clothing and crafts to bring home. It seemed that everyone couldn’t help but spend all the money they had in their respective pockets.

After shopping, we returned to the bus and headed back to the lodge.

At our last dinner, we were treated to Ecuadorian barbequed chicken, rice, and vegetables, finished off with ice cream (ice cream twice in one day!). Just as we were finishing an authentic Ecuadorian dance troupe arrived in traditional dress as a celebratory surprise for the students. True to form, Jorge took a moment to explain the historical significance of their dress before presenting the group. The dance group came from a nearby village in the Andean highlands and they were comprised of one man with a mask completely covering his face, six young men, three older women, six teenage girls, and three adorable little girls. They danced three elaborate numbers and then proceeded to bring us out one by one to join in one big circle dance. It was a sight to see. Soon everyone was up, smiling and dancing with enthusiasm. It was a fitting finale for our incredible experience in Ecuador.

Before we went off to bed, we asked Jorge to join us so we could give thanks. It was clear from all the faces that there was sincere affection for this exceptional man we had grown to adore over just one week. As the week wore on, it seemed that we learned more and more about Jorge and his amazing talents. In addition to being extremely knowledgeable about birds, plants and history, Jorge is a veterinarian, speaks English fluently and some French, was formerly a professional soccer player for two years and was twice the national mountain biking champion of Ecuador. He is also an amateur archeologist, an accomplished horseman, an excellent painter, an accomplished musician playing the guitar and Andean flute, he’s writing a book on the bird species of Ecuador and is planning a bike ride across Ecuador. He is also a humanitarian (he is building a kindergarten at the local school), a dedicated conservationist, a loving family man -- father of three beautiful children, and he loves to sing and dance. A common refrain of the week: “What can’t Jorge do?”

Before we could present him with our thank you gift a spontaneous group-hug broke out. After breaking apart, we presented Jorge with an envelope full of personalized letters that we had all written to him. With very little prompting, the students wrote thoughtful, sincere letters of thanks and appreciation, citing their favorite memories and most amazing adventures of the week. The adults were touched just reading the letters, many of which contained phrases such as, “Jorge you are amazing!” and “this trip has changed by life, thanks to you.” After one final group picture and final hugs we all went off to bed contented and already missing San Jorge Lodge and making plans for when we could return.

March 22
This morning we work up early (at 5:00 am) and had our final breakfast at San Jorge Quito. Jorge came to the lodge to accompany us to the airport and he shared with us how touched he was by our letters. In fact, he told us he woke up at 1:00 am and felt compelled to write us a letter in response. He told us to read it together when we had a chance while traveling home. With glimmering eyes, he thanked the students for allowing him to get in touch again with his own youthfulness. On the bus ride to the airport, his emotions were noticeable as he thanked us again over the bus microphone and sang to us one more time a popular song lyric, “Do you believe in miracles…you sexy thing.” After one more round of hugs, we anxiously rushed through the many airport security checkpoints (with only a few unfortunate delays) and onto our awaiting aircraft.

What a trip!

Spring Break ’09 yeah, yeah!

Blake School ~ Environmental Student Learning Tour ~
March 15 – 22, 2009