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Name: Gerry Doekes
Sent: 3/2008

Natural Wonders of Ecuador

In March 2007, my wife Denise and I finally went to Ecuador, a trip we had been planning all winter.
We arrived in Quito, capitol city of Ecuador on March 4, and were warmly greeted by a Dr. George Cruz, owner of, and guide at the 2 lodges we were going to be staying at. Not a twenty minute drive to the outskirts of Quito, we arrived at the Hosteria San Jorge Botanical and Eco-lodge.
This lodge was built as a traditional 18th Century Spanish Hosteria, and is situated on 200 acres in the Pichincha Foothills.
This property is the only reserve within minutes of Quito, and is the start of what is offered as the San Jorge Magic Birding Circuit.
George Cruz owns five different nature and bird watching reserves, located at different altitudes of the country. This gives a wonderful opportunity to see birds that occur only at certain elevations, with some overlap of a few species.
San Jorge Reserve includes High Barren Plains and Highland Rain Forest. We had to acclimatize to the altitude (approx. 9000 ft.) for the first couple of hours on our first full day there.
We then hiked into the highland plain area of the property, here we were treated to the constant calling of the Tawny Antpitta. This species of bird is a master at staying hidden, we did manage to get great looks at it.
Another species of bird we observed in this area is the Curve-billed Tinamou, another secretive bird, that will not flush until you almost step on it.
We then hiked on, into the Highland Rainforest area, where we saw the beautiful Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager.
Other spectacular species seen on the property, just to name a few, included Black-tailed and Green-tailed Trainbearer, Purple-backed Thornbill (all hummingbird species)
Next day we completed an easy hike to the Yanacocha Hummingbird Reserve, we were treated to the appearance of the
Sword-billed Hummingbird(approx.four inch bill) Golden-breasted Puffleg, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, as well as other bird species such as Glossy Flower-piercer and Barred Fruiteater.
The next two days were spent birding along the world famous birding area named Nono-Mindo road in the Tandayapa Valley, where we admired beautiful scenery and observed many more species of birds, including the beautiful Grass-green Tanager, Plate –billed Mountain Toucan and Andean Cock-of-the-Rock.
We then visited San Jorge de Tandayapa Reserve, located in the cloud forest of the Tandayapa Valley, after more hiking we ended up on a hilltop with a shelter surrounded by hummingbird feeders. During the next three hours we observed a total of nineteen different species of hummingbirds, including a gorgeous Booted Racket-tail, which is another species of puffleg hummingbird, referring to the tufts of feathers on their thighs.
We then were transferred to San Jorge de Milpe Reserve.
Here there was a beautiful newly constructed 2-level lodge built in 2006, along with observation decks, overlooking a river gorge. Our guide, George Cruz suggested we get ready for a nice relaxing day of hiking, birding and some swimming.
 This property was about280 acres of Sub-tropical Rainforest, with a great trail system and at least five waterfalls, where we had a lot of fun swimming at each of them, nice and refreshing.
Birding there, was spectacular as well. In the evening, around the open air dining shelter, attracted some beautiful moths of different sizes, up to 5 inch wingspans. Along the trail around the lodge, at night, by flashlight we happened upon a blind snake species, about 3 feet in length, it was purple in colour and it’s defense mechanism was it’s ability to emit slime from it’s body.
We were able to imitate the call of a Common Potoo, after a couple of attempts, the bird finally did answer. It makes a very eerie sound, it is of the family species of Frogmouths, this species of bird, camaflouges itself by perching in a frozen position, making itself look like a end of a broken branch.
From this lodge as a home base, we drove down to the Sub-Tropical lower humid area of Pedro Vicente Maldinado, where we spent the day birding along the road network.
This lodge was well worth the 5 day visit as a home base, in an area of abundant bird species.
Transferred back to  San Jorge Hosteria Botanical Eco-lodge. The next day George took us and his family north of Quito, to spend a delightful day visiting the famous Otavalo Native Market, with all there crafts and native blankets, it was an enlightening day for us to take in the culture of the area, and a change from birding, allowing our necks a rest.
Next day we left for the trip that would see our guide take us up the western slope of the Andes Mountains, for an adventurous day of bird-watching.
 In the Paramo area, on the Papallacta Pass (approx. 14000ft. altitude), we were lucky to observe a mixed flock of birds, including Giant Conebill, Stout-billed Cinclodes and also lucked into seeing an endemic Ecuadorian Hillstar (hummingbird sp). All this, with high winds and temperature of only plus 2C.
Heading down the eastern slope, we checked a lot of mountain streams, and finally saw a pair of Torrent Ducks.
Over the next couple of days our guide took us to San Jorge Cosanga/Yanayacu Bird & Wildlife Reserve, the last of the reserves to visit that George owned, and ultimately ended the Magic Birding Circuit which he is proud of, and worked so hard at, toward seeing his goal come true.
One more day was spent driving and birding along the road to Coca, fantastic Amazon Basin area, where we saw the spectacular Paradise Tanager.
George did a wonderful job as a guide, and took the time to share his knowledge, showing us medicinal plants and a lot of the beautiful wildflowers, everywhere we visited. All the meals served were fantastic.
Of all the birds we seen, one of the highlights had to be the Lyre-tailed Nightjar, with the male showing off tail streamers of 24 inches in length.
After 22 days it was hard to have had to leave such a beautiful country behind.

Name: Mark Enarson
Country-City: Edmonton, Canada
Sent: 1/30/2008
San Jorge Eco Lodge is a beautiful, welcoming and very well run destination for people who want to see the tremendous diversity of Ecuador’s birds. The rooms were beautiful and the staff was very attentive. George was an exceptional guide and I was impressed by his desire to tailor the experience to the needs of a photographer. He appears deeply passionate about maximizing the quality of the viewing sites as well as furthering the welfare of his local people. It was a pleasure to visit this beautiful area and to feel that I was supporting an ethical business

Name: Francisca Regester
Country-City: San Francisco, CA , USA
Sent: 1/18/2008
My friend and I spent days on end, in December 2007, with George as our guide, and were continually amazed by his knowledge, enthusiasm and uncanny ability to see birds even when they were hidden in dense foliage.  And if we didn't see the birds he would call them to us.  George is what I would call, not just avid, but an obsessive bird watcher and guide.  And, he's incredibly knowledgeable about the history of Ecuador.  He's a lot of fun, too!
  San Jorge Eco-Lodge, near Quito, is worlds away from Quito.  It's a lovely place where we felt more like guests in George's home than tourists.  His parents, and  relatives , as well as the excellent staff, made our stay there truly special.  Do go horseback riding!
  The lodge at San Jorge de Milpe is another story.  The setting is so stunning and the lodge is so comfortable and the food is outstanding.  The surroundings--the waterfalls, the perfect trails, the views, the BIRDS--it's like a wonderland.  It is a wonderland!! 
  And don't miss Tandayapa--great hiking and amazing varieties of hummingbirds right under your nose!  I could go on, but will close by saying only that if you want an unforgettable experience seeing the birds of Ecuador and parts of the country you could never see otherwise, George is your man.   .

Name: Alan & Teresa Gubanich (Tour Leader)
The Magic Birding Circuit Tour:  Dec 25 – Jan 2, 2008
Lahontan Audubon Club – Nevada, USA
Sent: 1/2/2008
We visited Colonial Quito one day, and went to Otavalo for one day.  The rest of the time we went birding here at San Jorge, Tandayapa and Milpe Reserves, including Pappallacta areas.  All of the areas are beautiful, have great bird diversity and well worth visiting.  The guides and drivers were all excellent – Jorge, Richard, Jessica and Fernandino.  Jorge is a warm and entertaining and knowledgable host.  All of your services are excellent!  The food is delicious, some of the best meals we have ever had.  The staff is very attentive and personable and very efficient.  The rooms are lovely.  I can’t think of any way you could improve!

Name: Vern Benhart and Linda Edwards
The Magic Birding Circuit Tour: Jan 1 – 7, 2008 CA, USA
Sent: 1/7/2008
Just wanted to let the younger Jorge know that he was in our thoughts yesterday. We were hoping that he did well on the SAT's that he told us about. Our morning of hiking and birding with Jorge Jr. remains a highlight of our time in the Quito area. Also wanted to thank you all for our memorable stay at your beautiful Hacienda. Thank you.

Name: Vern Benhart and Linda Edwards
The Magic Birding Circuit Tour: Jan 1 – 7, 2008 CA, USA
Sent: 1/7/2008
Just wanted to let the younger Jorge know that he was in our thoughts yesterday. We were hoping that he did well on the SAT's that he told us about. Our morning of hiking and birding with Jorge Jr. remains a highlight of our time in the Quito area. Also wanted to thank you all for our memorable stay at your beautiful Hacienda. Thank you.

Name: Jim Dodson
Columbus Audubon Club
Country-City: California, USA
Sent: 1/5/2008
Email: jim.dodson@verizon.net
We visited Milpe, Tandayapa Yanacocha.  The grounds around the lodge provided pleasant walk.  Milpe is excellent.  Yanacocha was a nice walk.  Tandayapa provides an excellent setting for bird viewing.
Transport was adequate.  Our guides were knowledgable and skilled in English.  They were also quite considerate of our need to “see birds”, especially young George.  Food was considtently “excellent”!!.  I enjoyed the rustic atmosphere of the grounds and the buildings.

Name: Heather Raymond
Columbus Audubon Club
Sent: 12/5/2007
San Jorge was beautiful and charming.  We loved the architecture.   The staff were very friendly and attentive to all of our needs.  Great job!  San Jorge de Tandayapa Hummingbird Reserve was a bird paradise.  Excellent rare birds and Jorge is a perfect guide.  Tandayapa and Nono-Mindo Road trip was more than we could have hoped for.  We saw many specieis we did not thini it would be possible to locate.  Jorge was patient and excellent guide and younger Jorge was a friendly person and good driver.

Name:Byron and Donald Loucks
Country-City: Centralia, WA USA
Sent:12/11/2007
We took the 8 day Magic Birding Circuit Tour - 4 days at Milpe Lodge, 4 days at Quito Lodge. We enjoyed everything! Thank you!

Select Latin America ~ UK  ~ October 21, 2007

Name: Mike and Susan 
Country-City: Cornlal , UK
An amazing 2 days.  Wonderful scenery, huge variety of  birds and  flora.
Food excellent.  Jorge made us  feel  very welcome and acts as a superb
and extremely  knowledgeable  guide.

Name:Margareth Kirkman
Country-City: East Cowes  Isle of Wight
United Kingdom
We were given a warm welcome at San Jorge de Milpe . The rooms are spacious and  clean with good facilities. The food is definitely 5 star – varied, well served  plus predominantly 10 cal- make sure  you get the figs and cheese! And thats before you get  on to the  wild  life . Jorge has  the enthusiasm of a child and  the knowledge of an expert. We walked round the trails while he identified every  bird by sight or by call and had the book to show us pictures, plus the scope for real close ups. Wait  till you hear him imitate  everything from owls to marmosets!
Swimming through cool rock pools and under waterfalls was a special treat. All in all, highly recommended for birders of all levels.
 
Name:Sally Henbury and Sue Thomas
Country-City: United Kingdom
Wonderful location and setting with a circuit  of well laid out  trails . Providing a great information of flora and fauna .
Superb Ecuadorian food with excellent hospitality.

Name:Jon Dunn
Country-City: Los Angeles, CA  USA
Senior Guide  WINGS
Author of: Birds of North America National Geographic Book
Sent: 7/7/2007
We enjoyed San Jorge  Ecolodge in Quito, San Jorge de Tandayapa Hummingbird  Reserve and  San Jorge de Milpe Orchid and Bird Lodge .
SUPERB, especially Milpe . I have never seen such well maintained and tour participant trails - anywhere in the world!!!!!!
Dinner was excellent. The dining area here in Quito Lodge was very intimate and friendly.
You will need to use tapes eventually, but perhaps, not now.
Just state the policy up front. Really, but everything was just superb.

Name: Jennifer Jolis, Daniel Gibson
Country-City: Research Associate Ornithology
University of Alaska,  USA
Sent: 7/7/2007
Excellent service, excellent food and excellent birds.
Beautiful places – coludn´t  have ask for more, except more time!
George, the owner was an incredible guide, to birds, to history.
On the horse back,  Jose was wonderful.
The web site is excellent but it would have helped me to understand  the relationships between  the  different sites .
Thank you all so very much!!

Name: Gerry and Denise Doekes
Country-City: Norval,ON Canada
Sent: 3/27/07
Thank you so much for the fantastic 20 days we stayed at San Jorge Quito and San Jorge de Milpe. Bird watching the Magic Birding Circuit with you was absolutely glorious; we saw a total of 403 different Ecuadorian bird species. All 5 of your reserves are basically untouched and pristine and your 2 Eco-Lodges are beautiful. The food was delicious and made with caring hands. The personal care and thoughtfulness by George, Irina and all the staff was very much appreciated by both of us.
We would definitely recommend The Magic Birding Circuit of San Jorge Botanical Reserve, San Jorge de Milpe, Tandayapa, Yanayacu and Cosanga to all who visit beautiful Ecuador.

Read a detailed trip report of The Magic Birding Circuit

Name: Bob and Susan Soderstrom
Country-City: Grand Blanc, MI USA
Sent: 3/4/07
Everyhting was wonderful. We birded solidly the whole time. What an experience!!
Food was wonderful, as was the staff.
George made the trip for us. We enjoyed the time with his family.
Laura made us feel very comfortable.

Name: Lance and Michele Oberholtzer
Country-City: Michigan USA
Sent: 3/4/07
WE went birding from 2-23-07 to 3-3-07.
The areas were San Jorge Lodges and Preserves are located (Quito, Tandayapa, Milpe, Cosanga) are absolutely incredible!!
Don´t think they could be much better.
We were happy to see so much of this beautiful country. We loved Ecuador.
Everyone was so helpful and enjoyable. We loved how personal everyone was.
The food was delicious, we enjoyed the cultural dishes.
Wonderful birding experiences. What an amount of birds!! George is a very knowledgeable guide.

Name: Andrew Promaine
Country-City: Georgia Bay Islands National Park, Canada
Head Biolgist
Sent: 2/4/07
The Magic Birding Circuit: Nono-Mindo Road and San Jorge de Tandayapa Hummingbird Reserve provides some of the best birding in the world! This is a good tour for bird enthusiasts. At San Jorge Botanical Reserve in Quito we did self-guided tours to the waterfalls and the high altitudes (above the tree lines). The property is beautiful, especially with its proximity to Quito. It is like a little Oasis! Jorge is an excellent birding guide; the best I ever had; enthusiastic and professional. He really enjoys birding, and it shows. The rooms and restaurant are comfortable and the hotel services are friendly and secure.

Name: Marilyn and Dave Binkley
Country-City: Lakewood, CO USA
Sent: 1/10/07
1.-Very personal service and family atmosphere
2.-Healthy and balanced meals
3.-Helpful and courteous staff lead by an enthusiastic proprietor!
4.-Beautiful locations.
5.-Wide range of activities on and off -site
6.- Enjoyed hummingbird feeders outside our room in San Jorge Ecolodge and in San Jorge de Tandayapa Reserve.
7.- Great Ecuadorian experience
8.-New years eve trip down town and party at the Hostería-fabulous fun!
We went for 5 birding day trip with Jorge Sr and Jorge Jr. The Magic Birding Circuit.
Mountain Biking with Jorge Jr and with Jorge grandfather like a driver.
Papallacta Hot Springs
Otavalo Indian Market
New Years Eve Activities
Thank you for sharing your knowledge about the geography , geology, agriculture, history, politics, economics of your country.
-Thank you also for making us feel like a part of your family. It made our Ecuadorian experience that much more special.
-Thank you for your humor and laughing at our bad jokes.
-The very personal bird guiding provided by Jorge Sr and Jorge Jr was INCREDIBLE. You both are very knowledgeable about your local birds .
-I found it specially helpful when you help us located the birds, showed us the picture and name in the field guide and doing the checklist at the end of the day.
-The experience with your family and the whole Hosteria was so incredible that its hard to list them all.
-Jorge Jr is a super and enthusiastic birder . What an incredible young man.!!

Read a detailed report of the birding days

Name: Jim and Laura Wittemberger
Country-City: Boulder Colorado USA
Exotic Birding Co.
Sent: 11/10/06
We went birding in San Jorge Eco lodge and San Jorge de Milpe Reserve . Everything was great!! Many birds!! Hotel services, guidance and transportation, Everything was as expected. Thank you !!!

Name: Claudia Haag
Country-City: Portland Oregon USA
Portland Audubon Society
Sent: 9/28/06
We have visited San Jorge’s Reserves in Tandayapa, Milpe and Quito areas. Amazing areas. Jorge and Jorge, Jr. are fabulous guides. Drivers were very knowledgeable about the area. I felt the Jorge was extremely well versed in the area and birds, and very respectful. The rooms were kept very clean. The food was very delicious, although too much food. Excellent guides, very willing to help us to see birds and excellent locations. Very kind, considerate and respectful. Galapagos trip. Great guide, very knowledgeable and good spirited. The Aida Maria boat was very clean and the food good. I thought they could have clean towels, more pillows and blankets and screens in the windows.

Name: Willow Walker
Country-City: Portland Oregon
Portland Audubon Society
Sent: 9/28/06
San Jorge Ecolodge, San Jorge de Tandayapa Reserve and San Jorge de Milpe Reserve birding trips were great!! Its a warm, friendly, professional and respectful drivers and workers. Excellent food and room services. Knowledgeable guides. Jorge is professional birdguide, knowledgeable, enthusiastic, respectful of all levels of experience. Galapagos trip Good guide Luis Guantanamera, good view, good food. Rooms very small, scary at night when air conditioning, turned off. No clean towels in 4 days. Willow Walker

Name: Dawn Wilson
Country-City: Portland,OR USA
Portland Audubon Society
Sent: 9/28/06
Audubon Society guides choose an excellent location. San Jorge Ecolodge, San Jorge de Tandayapa, San Jorge de Milpe lodge are wonderful areas, great time. Services were all was great. We enjoyed our time here very much. Excellent restaurant, very attentive staff. Jorge and Jorge Jr. are very knowledgeable guides, comfortable accommodations. Thank you for all you did! Galápagos trip. Knowledgeable guide. Fun trip!

Name: Fran Ferro
Country-City: Portland, OR USA
Portland Audubon Society
Sent: 9/28/06
We visited most of San Jorge Reserves around the country. Jorges guidance was excellent. Birds were great. Every hotel aspect was very good. Jorge is an excellent and avid birder. He took time to make sure everyone saw the bird. Jorge´s son was very knowledgeable and helpful. Galápagos trip on Aida Maria Yacht. The wildlife was amazing. Our guide was very knowledgeable and spoke excellent English.

Name: Kelly Scott
Country-City: Portland USA
Oregon Audubon Society
Sent: 8/10/06
We went birding at San Jorge Ecolodge in Quito, San Jorge de Tandayapa and in Milpe. All EXCELLENT!! San Jorge Ecolodge is beautiful, lots of character. Rooms clean, mostly supplied, fireplace great, food excellent. Everyone is friendly. A GREAT place to stay. Probably no better place in the area. Jorge is a great guide-resource !!! Great variety of locations. Galapagos trip. Excellent guidance Boat clean, crew attentive to our needs.

Name: Bob Wilson
Country-City: Portland, Oregon USA
Professional bird guide & tour leader of Oregon Audubon Society
Sent: 9/28/06
San Jorge Ecolodge, San Jorge de Tandayapa Reserve were all excellent. Beautiful new facilities in Milpe Reserve. All hotel services are excellent!! Jorge’s guidance is EXCELLENT!! Engaging, informative, expert birding. Galapagos Cruise. Guide was very good. Boat was ok.

Name: Dan van der Broek
Country-City:Gladstone, Oregon USA
Professional bird guide & tour leader of Oregon Audubon Society
Sent: 8/10/06
We took the San Jorge Magic Birding Tour Great Birding places.
Everybody had great fun!! San Jorge provided excellent services.
The food is wonderful, great hotel, looking forwards to San Jorge de Milpe!!
Jorge is an excellent guide. Lots of fun.
Galapagos trip had a great boat (Aida Maria). The guide was an excellent naturalist

.

Name: Kathy and John Schick
Country-City:Sacramento, CA USA
Sent: 7/21/06
Wonderful, excellent birding guides!
Fernando was very helpful and good. Of course, George was the best, having both helped like a great team. The complete hotel and tourist services in Hostería San Jorge are wonderful.

Name: Mr. & Mrs. Kenneth Tischner
Country-City:Malton, N.J
Sent: 6/17/06
We went to San Jorge de Tandayapa Reserve and Nono Mindo Road. It was the best day!!
Loved the drive, the scenery, the birds!
The guides came through and found us great birds.
San Jorge has a wonderful, friendly staff. Good services and good food. It is a lovely mountain retreat.
The grounds are exceptional as is the architecture of the buildings.
I like it the way it is!.

Name: Greg And Linda Brown
Country-City:New York USA
Sent: 3/23/06
Night walk with Jorge- wonderful evening walk.!
Birding S.J. Botanical  reserve  with Jorge. We enjoyed the entire day. We saw over 30 new species. Jorge is very knowledgeable, speaks excellent English and is very patient. He is very proud of his land and we felt privileged to have him sharing it with us.  .Nice to have the bird book and the bird species list.
-Horseback riding Tour.- the only way we could  have gotten up so high for such a FABULOUS  VIEW. Vicente did a great  job. The horses were well -behaved.
-Rooms were clean and comfortable. Thank you for the electric heater and extra blankets. It gets cold at night. Very nice rooms!  Nice flowers on first day.
- The dining room is beautiful and the food is EXCELLENT.  Every meal was nicely presented and delicious. Fresh flowers.!!
-We think that inviting all the guests to the fireplace room for happy hour is a great idea. It is nice to meet the other interesting guests and to listen to Jorge talk about the Hosteria and Ecuador. It is a very comfortable room. Maybe add books of Ecuador, a puzzle for a rainy day.
- Exteriors. The hotel grounds are beautiful!  Lovely gardens and nice walkways.
-Consider also a short horseback ride. 1 to 2 hours  for people  who do not want to go so far. The box lunch was very tasty.
- We really enjoy the hummingbird feeders, the gardens are lovely.  .Essential  to have English speaking staff.
We loved our visit.   Thank  you very much!!  We will hope to return.!!

Name: Claudia Berry
Country-City: Florida, USA
Sent: 8/1/05
Our stay at Botanical Reserve Hosteria San Jorge (Quito. Highland Rain Forest and Paramo) Facilities and staff are wonderful, helpful and welcoming. Excellent food and service. Thanks for everything!!

Our stay in San Jorge de Tandayapa ( cloud forest) Beautiful. Run tours from 6 am to 2 pm. We really loved the enthusiasm . We already talk about ideas. I think everything you are doing is very exciting. Thank you